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Front Derailleur Adjustment

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1. Low Adjustment

Mount the chain on the smallest chain ring and the largest sprocket. Turn the low adjustment screw so that the distance between the chain and the inside guide pulley is 0 to 0.5 mm.

2. Top Adjustment

Mount the chain on the largest chain ring and the smallest sprocket. Turn the top adjustment screw so that the distance between the chain and the outside guide pulley is 0 to 0.5 mm.

3. Intermediate Chain wheel/ SIS Adjustment

Mount the chain on the central chain wheel and the largest sprocket. Adjust the microa djuster on the shifter so that the distance between the chain and the inside guide pulley is 0 to 0.5 mm.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

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1. Top Adjustment

Turn the top adjustment screw to adjust so that the guide pulley is inline with the outer line of the smallest sprocket when looking from the rear.

2. Low Adjustment

Turn the low adjustment screw so that the guide pulley moves to a position directly in line with the largest sprocket.

3. SIS(Shimano Index System) Adjustment

Drive the pedals forward and move the chain from one to another gear. In case of chain noise and the chain cannot move to the gear that you mean to move, try to turn the cable tension
barrel adjuster on the RD or micro adjuster on the shifter.

Saddle Height

2007-12-25T20:12:00.000-08:00

Comfortness in doing cycling activities is not only depends on your seat position, but also the height. You can adjust the seat height to your feet length accurately by doing these things:

1. Tighten your seat. Place your ankle onthe pedal with the nearest position to the ground. Make sure the crank is on the vertical position.

2. If the heel of your foot points down about 30 degree , the height of the saddle is correct.

Cautions!

Make sure that the border mark on the seatpost is inside the frame already. If it is not possible to reach the right height of the seat, you have to choose the longer size.

The ideal position of these at is horizontal. Consider the parallel position of the seat with the top tube of the frame.

Make sure that the seat is correctly place down the seatpost,and the QR seat pin position to the inside more or less parallel with the top tube.

Buying a Bicycle Helmet

2007-11-13T20:20:00.000-08:00

Buy a helmet that has been tested and meets the uniform safety standard issued by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), or one or more of the voluntary bicycle helmet standards like ASTM, Snell or ANSI. You can tell this by looking for a label or sticker that says the helmet meets the standard. Select a brand and size that fits well prior to any adjustments. Adjustable sizing pads are often included to help ensure a better fit. Buy one that’s comfortable and attractive. You’ll be more likely to wear it. Buy a helmet that fits your child now, not a helmet to “grow into.” Replace any helmet that has been involved in a crash!

Fitting a Helmet

• Put the helmet on your head so it sits evenly between the ears and rests low on your forehead – it should only be about 1-2 finger widths above your eyebrow.

• Put foam pads inside the helmet so it feels comfortable but really snug. Usually, the helmet includes more than one size of foam pads that can be velcroed inside the helmet for a better fit.

Tighten the Left Front Strap so that the buckle is under the center of the chin and the straps make a V beneath your ears with the buckle under the ear lobe

Adjust the Left Back Strap, pulling any slack away from the front of the helmet

Adjust the Right Back Strap, continuing to pull the slack in the strap to lay flat against the head

Adjust the Right Front Strap so that you have a V under this ear with the buckle under the ear lobe

Adjust the Chin strap so that it is snug and holds the helmet level. You should be able to put one or two fingers between the strap and chin AND be able to yawn, chew, talk with the helmet staying secure.

•A Good Helmet Fit is as important as wearing one...but it takes time. Allow as much as a half hour to get a proper helmet fit. If fitting your child, don’t try to “rush” it as they are trying to go outside to ride. Do it while they’re relaxed and you have plenty of time. Then secure the adjustments so the helmet is ready for the next ride.

•When hanging your helmet on your bike at home, school, shops, buckle the helmet and hang it on the handlebars by the buckle and not by the straps that you have fitted to go under your ears.

Helmet Replacement

•Helmets are good for one crash and one crash only
•Replace helmets after one crash or three years – check the ‘birthday’ inside your helmet
•Cut the straps off before throwing a helmet away – if it is not safe for you, it is not safe for anyone else to wear.
•Put your name inside the helmet for emergencies

Major Using Tips

1. With one hand, gently lift the front of the helmet up and push back.
Helmet moves back to uncover the forehead.
Tighten (shorten) front straps to junction under ears while leaving back straps in the same position. Retighten chinstrap as needed. Also, adjust padding thickness and position,especially in the back (and/or front if needed). If this doesn’t work, the helmet may be too big.

2. With one hand, gently lift the back of the helmet up and push forward
Helmet moves forward to cover the eyes
Tighten (shorten) back straps. Make sure chin strap is snug. Also adjust padding thickness and position, especially in front (and/or back as needed). If this doesn’t work, the helmet may be too big.

3. Put a hand on each side of the helmet and rock from side to side. Shake your head “no” as hard as possible.
Helmet slips from side to side.
Check padding on sides and add thicker pads. Make sure strapsare snug and evenly adjusted.

4. Open your mouth (lower jaw) as wide as possible, without moving your head. The top of the helmet should pull snugly against the top of your head.
Helmet does not pull down when opening your mouth.
Tighten chin strap. Make sure the front and back strap junctions rest under each earlobe.

Bike Fit Tips part 2

2007-11-13T19:54:00.000-08:00

Knee Bend should be about 5 degrees

Saddle Height

•With the right frame size, you’ll be able to set your correct saddle height, which will be within a centimeter of .883 x inseam length, measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the low point of the top of your saddle. This allows full leg extension, with a slight bend in the leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

•LeMond recommends that you then shorten this length by 3mm when using clipless pedals. Also, you might consider a slightly taller saddle height if you ride with your toes down and your heel raised. Most importantly, make any changes in saddle height gradually, and give your body time to adapt to the new position.

Frame Size

•Neutral Knee Position Next, put your bike in a stationary trainer, raising the front wheel to level the bike. Check your position with a video camera or mirrors in front and to the side, or with the help of a friend. Position your cleats with the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle, and in line with any natural "toe-in" or "toe-out" foot position. Warm up by riding easily for 8–10 minutes.

•Then, as you continue to look ahead, slowly stop pedaling, and bring the cranks to rest at horizontal, parallel to the ground. Check the position of your forward knee relative to the pedal spindle —for a "neutral knee position," you’ll be able to drop a plumb line from just below the front of the forward kneecap, and have it bisect the pedal spindle and ball of your foot below. Remember to not raise or drop your heel or hip as you check this. Then, move the saddle fore or aft, as needed, to achieve this neutral position.

•The neutral knee position serves as a good starting point for most cyclists, though many adjust it from here: long distance (stage) racers and mountain bikers often move the saddle back by 1cm or more, for power, and sprinters may move it forward, “getting on top of the gear” for quick acceleration.

•One more note on frame size and geometry: if you cannot move the saddle back far enough to get your knee to the neutral position, you should look for a frame with a more relaxed seat tube angle, or consider a slightly larger frame; if you have trouble moving the saddle forward enough, look for a steeper seat tube angle on your next frame, or consider a smaller frame. For most frames, a seat tube angle shallower by 1° moves the seat lug 1cm back, relative to the bottom bracket.

•Finally, recheck your saddle height. If you’ve moved your saddle forward or back, you’ve effectively shortened or lengthened your saddle height, and will need to readjust it.

Top Tube and Stem Length

•Top Tube and Stem Length Next, dial in the correct "reach" to the bar, or horizontal fit. Proper reach gives you easier breathing, better neck and lower back comfort, and better weight distribution and bike handling.

•That "ideal position" varies here more than anywhere else for cyclists, depending on riding style, flexibility, body proportions, and frame geometry, among others. And, your upper body position will evolve with more hours in the saddle. That is, you may find that you develop a lower, longer position as your fitness and flexibility improve. As Phinney notes, though it may be difficult to achieve a truly flat back, we cyclists should all strive to be “longer” across the top of the bike.

•Unfortunately, there is no formula for sizing the top tube and stem that works as well as the inseam method. One indicator comes from glancing down at the front hub while riding in the drops; your view of the the front hub should be obstructed by the handlebar. LeMond recommends that your elbows, bent at 65–70° with your hands in the drops, should be within an inch or two of your knees at the top of your stroke.

•Measure your current bike’s top tube and stem. Then, decide how you’d like to alter that fit; add the top tube length to the stem length to get your overall top dimension. The very reason we stock stems in 1cm increments, from 7cm to 14cm, is just to let you dial in your best top tube and stem length.

Crank Length, Gearing

•Choosing the right crank arm length, like the rest of this, comes down to your size and riding style. Longer cranks give you more leverage, helpful if you like to push big gears at a low cadence (climbing, time trialing, etc.). On the other hand, if you like to spin at a high cadence, you’ll do better with standard cranks. As a starting point, often recommended: 170mm cranks on 54cm C-T road frames and smaller, 170–172.5mm cranks on 55–61cm frames, and 172.5–175mm cranks on 62cm frames and larger.

•Mountain bikes generally get cranks 2.5–5mm longer than road bikes; that is, you might want a 175mm crank on your mountain bike if you’re set up with a 172.5 on your road bike.

•Available are a wide range of gearing options for chainrings and cassettes. Depending on your strength and terrain, you’re welcome to specify the close-ratio gearing generally used for racing, or wider ratios for hilly terrain or more recreational riding.

Handlebar Size

•Road handlebars come in several widths and bends. Most cyclists select a bar that is just as wide as their shoulders, measured as the distance between the shoulder joints. A wider bar opens the chest for better breathing and more leverage, but is less aerodynamic. You’ll need to find your own balance between the two.

Bike Sizing Worksheet

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•Enter your inseam measurement: __________cm inseam
Calculate your frame size (C-T):
Road: _____cm inseam * .67* = _____cm
Mountain: (____cm inseam * .67*) - (10-12cm)= ___-____ = ________cm

•Calculate your saddle height: ____cm inseam * .883 = ____cm saddle height

•Establish "neutral knee:" Move saddle fore or aft?
Recheck saddle height

•Enter your TT and stem lengths: Top tube = _____cm; Stem = _____cm

•Enter your handlebar size: Bar width = _____cm

•Enter your crank length, gearing: Crank length = _____mm; Chain rings = ____ * ____
Cassette = ____ * ____

•Note: Wheelbuilding:
# Spokes ____F/____R
Spoke Gauge ____F/____R
Nipples ____F/____R

•Conversions:
____inches * 2.54 = ____cm
____cm * .394 = ____inches

Bike Fit Tips

2007-11-13T19:23:00.000-08:00

Road Bike : 1” – 2” over top tube

Mountain Bike : 3” – 4” over top tube

Correct Inseam Measurement:

To determine your proper frame size, you’ll first need to get an accurate inseam measurement . Stand with your back against a wall, your bare feet 6" apart on a hard floor, looking straight ahead. Place a book or carpenter’s square between your legs with one edge against the wall, and pull it up firmly into your crotch, simulating the pressure of your saddle while riding. Have a helper measure from the top edge of the book to the floor, in centimeters. (You can convert inches to centimeters by multiplying inches by 2.54.) Repeat two or three times, for consistency, and average the results to get your inseam length.

Road Bike Fit & Frame Size:

The best frame size for a cyclist is as small vertically as possible, with enough length horizontally to allow a stretched out, relaxed upper body. This frame will be lighter and stiffer than a larger one, and will handle better and be more comfortable than a smaller one.

Mountain Bike Fit…

For a mountain bike, we start by recommending a frame in the range of 10–12cm smaller than you take in a road frame. For example, if you ride a 55cm C-T road frame, look for a 43–45cm (17–18") C-T mountain frame.

Frame Dimensions:

A1 Seat Tube Length (C—T)

A2 Seat Tube Length (C—C)

B Top Tube length (C—C)

C Stem Length (C—C)

…Mountain Bike Fit

In many ways, though, it is more important to fit a mountain frame by the top tube length needed, rather than by the seat tube length. For instance, you might be able to get to the proper frame clearance, saddle height and neutral knee position (see below) on either a 17" frame or a 19" frame. Yet the 19" frame will likely have a top tube 1" longer than the 17" frame, which changes your stem length accordingly. Or, one manufacturer’s 17" frame may give you a 22" top tube, while the next one’s 17" gives you a 22.8". More on this below… just make sure that you’ll be able to work out your top tube and stem length for a given frame.

Thinking About Buying A Mountain Bike?

2007-11-13T01:25:00.000-08:00

Are you a biking enthusiast? If you are, then you probably know how problematic buying the perfect mountain bike can be. If you are a newbie and wish to buy your very first mountain bike, you have to be prepared for a tough hunt. You should never settle for anything less than satisfactory. If it is anything to go by, you should settle for the best there is in the market. Quality and price do come hand in hand, however, and it is a reality that we all have a specific budget range. But that is of little consequence. There are so many quality mountain bikes that you can afford. It's a matter of looking for the best deals.

First thing to consider when buying a mountain bike is your budget. Do some research on the different price levels of available mountain bikes. You need not go inside every sporting goods store to compare prices. The internet will do just fine, maybe even better, as there are countless of online stores and biking websites from which you may get the information you need. When you have an estimate of how much a mountain bike costs, you can set out and begin looking for the bike that you want. Here's a little tip - try buying from a local community sporting goods or bike shop. The prices are considerably lower than those from mass merchant stores like Wal-Mart.

What is your style? Mountain bikes are manufactured differently from one another. The reason for this is that there are different specifications and requirements on mountain bikes depending on your riding style and the terrain types that you will be conquering. Among the different styles of biking are - smooth riding, cross country racing, mountain cruising, or lift accessed downhill. You need to know which of these styles you will be embarking on. This is very important in finding out the right mountain bike for you. Here's another tip - salespeople are in it for the commission. Don't listen to their tiny voices which say you need to buy this or that bike because they are top of the line. Buy according to your needs and style.

There is another very important point that you need to consider when buying a mountain bike. Full suspension or hard tail? To be honest, a full suspension mountain bike is the best choice. That is, if you can afford it. However you can still choose a hard tail. If you opt for the hard tail, which means the bike has no rear suspension, the bike will be much lighter and pedal more efficiently. Full suspensions are of course the most comfortable. However, since there is a satisfactory alternative in the presence of the hard tail, this decision will be based on what you really want and what your budget is.

Don't forget to take the bike for a test ride. Try testing out several different bikes, so you will be sure which one works best for you and with you. Also, try checking out seasonal sales and promos. This way, you will be able to save some money and afford the best possible mountain bike within your price range.

I hope that this little guide was able to help you. With the tips given, I am sure that you and your new bike will work together for that ultimate mountain biking adventure.

Skills For The Beginning Mountain Biker

2007-11-13T01:07:00.000-08:00

Mountain biking is a fun sport but it is also dangerous. However, participants can lesson their chances of injury by taking a few precautions. First off, of course, they should have the necessary skills before even getting on the mountain.

Practically anyone can get on a bike and ride around their neighborhood, go across flat countryside or ride up and down hills, but when it comes to mountain biking, the rider should have certain skills before giving it a try.

Depending on how long you've ridden your bike, it's quite possible that you do have these skills - so let's just run through them.

1) Feel the pedals
Are you used to keeping your feet on your pedals at all times? Of course you are. But when you're mountain biking (or doing stunts), feet come off the pedals... and have to be able to find them again without hesitation.

So practice taking your feet off the pedals and replacing them...this will instill "muscle memory" so your feet always will know where the pedals should be at any given time.

2) Shift the gears
If you live in a flat area, you probably don't do a lot of gear shifting. This will change when you get on the slopes, so find yourself a hill near your home and practicing shifting as you go both up and down. Also, if you get tired just biking up a regular-sized hill, you'll want to do some wind sprints up that same hill for a couple of weeks before you decide to take on a mountain.

3) Stand up for yourself
Most people sit on their bikes while they ride, but again, on a mountain bike you don't have that luxury. You'll be off your seat more often than not. So practice coasting along while standing, and then pedaling while standing....and don't do it for just a few yards and then stop.

4) Before you go hurtling down
Mountain biking is a dangerous sport, and you should always wear a helmet, and knee and elbow pads. And when you're practicing going over curbs - the same should apply.

You want to practice going up and over curbs to get the feel of doing it on a hill. You know your own bike best - exactly how high can an obstruction be before you can't go over it with your bike? Probably about six inches.

Going off a curb is another thing entirely. As long as you have good balance and strong hands to keep your front tire straight, you can get quite a bit of "air" before hitting the ground again - but you need to know the ground you'll be landing on to ensure that there's no obstructions that will get in your way. So always ride a downhill trail relatively slowly the first time, before you go full out.

But back to practicing. Check out the curbs in your neighborhood, and - while wearing your safety gear and making sure there's no traffic in the area - practice going over them at different speeds. If all the curbs are of the same height, you'll have to increase them using man-made objects such as ramps. However... you learned to crawl before you could walk, and by the same token, become very comfortable on those short curbs before you try to increase the height and air of your jumps, and always wear your safety gear while you do it.

There's no need to be impatient. Work on your skills first, then tackle a beginners mountain biking trail or two to perfect your skills even more. Once you've got the skills, mountain biking will be a breeze! by: Alastair Hamilton

Bicycle Riding Safety Tips for Children

2007-11-12T22:19:00.000-08:00

Whoosh! The cyclists shot around the last turn in the race and began their final ascent up the hill. After reaching the apex, they rushed downhill towards the finish line. As the two leaders rolled neck-and-neck across finish line, no naked eye could determine who had won. Watching today’s professional cyclists sport streamlined helmets reminds us that we should use safety precautions, such as a kids playing sign, to protect our children.

In addition to races, cycling can function as an excellent workout and conserve natural resources! People of all ages, including children, can enjoy bicycling. However, like any other recreational activity, safety precautions, such as posting a kids playing sign should be taken.

Bicycle safety starts with a helmet, as the majority of bike accidents include head injuries. Even with the frequent help of a kids playing sign, every year in the United States alone, about 5000,000 children become critically injured in accidents that involve helmets. However, helmets could have prevented the majority of them. When purchasing a helmet for a child, it should meet high safety standards; allow much air to enter; fit well and be adjustable; and be bright. After purchasing a helmet, ensure that the child wears it, does not wear another hat beneath it, and ties the straps. Also, if it is to be as effective like a kids playing sign, the bike helmet should be worn exclusively for bicycling.

Like a helmet or a kids playing sign, clothing is also significant for children’s bike safety. Shoes should be capable of gripping the bike’s pedals. Meanwhile, pants legs should not be overly baggy. Also, lightweight clothes can help to prevent overheating. Lastly, clothing should be fluorescent or brightly colored, functioning like a kids playing sign in making drivers cautious.

To increase cycling safety like a kids playing sign does, children’s bikes should be examined twice every season. In particular, the chain, seat, tires, breaks, and handlebars should be adjusted and undergo maintenance.

In addition to a child’s cycling gear, children’s cycling itself should be safe, by following these guidelines:
- Adhere to all traffic lights and stop signs, as a driver should note a kids playing sign.
- Be cautious of pedestrians.
- Keep a reasonable distance from parked cars
- Look both ways before pulling away from a curb, driveway, or alley.
- Ride on designated bike paths
- Ride with traffic
- Use crosswalks to walk bikes across busy intersections.

Next, children should always be mindful of other bikers and travelers, like a kids playing sign makes drivers aware of cyclists in the area. Cyclists should also cross other bikes on their left; never wear headphones when they are biking; use their left arm to perform correct hand signals; always ride with other groups in single file; and never allow others to sit on their handlebars or seats.

Bicycles offer a healthy and fun exercise for children. Thus, ensuring their safety through means such as a kids playing sign can help to launch a lifetime of cycling enjoyment.

Bicycle Anatomy - Hardtail

2007-11-12T01:50:00.000-08:00

Which Lifestyle Bike is Right for You?

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Beach Cruisers
Beach cruisers are an American classic. Strong, simple, and reliable, beach cruisers can be counted on to be there when you need them. The most stylish bikes available, beach cruisers appeal to a wider spectrum of riders that any other type of bike. Beach cruisers are best suited to flat terrain and do not feature the high tech gizmos of many modern bikes, but this just adds to the appeal of the cruiser for many buyers. If you want to get there in style a custom cruiser may be right for you.

City Bikes
Getting around by bike is one of America’s best kept secrets. The benefits of clean air, exercise and self-locomotion are undisputable and yet passers by often pity the “unfortunate” person who rides his bike, not knowing that they in fact are the ones who are missing out. City bikes come in various flavors from the pure utilitarianism of a commuter bicycle to the stylish and useful coffee shop bike. City bikes often use internally geared hubs, such as Shimano’s Nexus 7, and feature chain guards for riding in everyday clothing.

Hybrids
Ever wish you had a comfortable upright handle bar on your old 10 speed or road bike? Well, you’re not the only one. The desire for easy rolling, comfortable bikes, capable of routinely traveling distances greater than 10 miles, led to the creation of bikes called hybrids. Part road bike and part mountain bike the hybrid is a great choice for sport touring, casual riding or commuting to work or school. Hybrids use wide range gearing and large diameter tires, wider than road tires, but smoother and faster than mountain bike or cruiser tires.

Comfort Mountain Bikes
Often called simply, “comfort” bikes, the comfort mountain bike is designed to spend much of its life on pavement. Its large tires, wide saddles and tall upright handlebars create a safe and comfortable cockpit for its rider. With wide range gearing and powerful brakes, comfort bikes are an excellent choice for a novice or infrequent rider who choose comfort over speed.

Which Road Bike is Right for You?

2007-11-12T00:36:00.000-08:00

Road Bike
The traditional road bike historically has been used for road riding, club rides and criteriums. While a traditional road bike has many different frame geometries to support the preferences of novice and experienced riders alike, the components they use are similar in design and function. The road bike has drop-handlebars and skinny tires on a taller frame. Road bike gear choices are classified as double and triple gearing.

Time-Trial/Triathlon Bikes
These types of bicycles are built for speed and are designed to position the rider out in a more aerodynamic body position. This is done by incorporating the use of aero bars. By using the aero bars, you are more aerodynamic thus creating a faster ride. The downside of time trial or triathlon bikes is that they are built for speed on shorter courses. These bikes use a lot of the same components as traditional road bikes. Where they differ is in the chain ring combinations on the crank set that some groups offer like Dura-Ace and the types of shifters that are used on the aero bars (see bar end shifters).

Touring Bikes
A touring bike is built for just what the name says, “Touring.” The idea of hopping on your bike with a bunch of panniers and going out to see the country side. These bikes generally have a more upright position. Most traditional road bikes can be converted into a touring bike, but a true touring bike offers a few differences that make it ideal for traveling with your panniers or bags. With the added weight of panniers, you need two things. One is more stopping power by the use of cantilever brakes (see BR-R550) which require the use of cantilever bosses built into the frame. The other is a wider range of gears to get you up hills easier by the use of triple gearing.

Cyclo-Cross Bikes

Cyclo-Cross began in Europe as a form of cross training in the winter for cyclists. Cyclo-Cross is the idea of riding a modified road bike off-road. While still using drop bars and a majority of the parts used on traditional road bikes, cyclo-cross bikes still have some special needs. With a cyclo-cross bike, you need cantilever brakes (see br-r550) for more braking power since some cross course are muddy thus reducing the efficiency of your traditional dual-pivot caliper road brake. Most cyclo-cross riders use smaller gears on their crank set to allow for easy acceleration due to the steeper pitches found on off-road courses. On all cyclo-cross bikes you will find wider and knobbed tires to help gain traction in the dirt.

Track Bikes
A track bike is probably the last bike you want. But for experienced cyclists who understand what track racing is and the excitement of it, it can be a very exciting form of cycling.Track Bikes have one chain ring and one fixed gear on the back which does not allow you to coast. In addition these bikes do not use brakes because they are ridden on a velodrome. With the combination of a fixed gear and no brakes, this type of riding is for the experienced and trained cyclists.

Which Mountain Bike is Right for You?

2007-11-12T00:20:00.000-08:00

How do I choose?
Because riding styles and equipment have evolved to suit different terrain, deciding which bicycle is right for you will be easier if you know what type of terrain you intend to ride. A common misconception is that a new rider needs more suspension because of the added control. While the added suspension may instill confidence in some technical sections, often time the relaxed geometry is not suited to less experienced riders. On the other hand, it is just as hard to avoid the temptation of the ultra-light bike. The benefits of light weight are undeniable, but a novice rider will find XC racing bikes can be difficult to control when the trail gets rough.

XC Racing Bikes
Often called Cross Country bikes, XC Racing bikes are designed to tackle a mountain from the bottom. Lightweight and efficient, XC bikes often sacrifice comfort and control as luxuries you can’t afford when racing to the top. XC bike frames are either hardtail or short travel, semi-active suspension designs. Long and low, XC bikes put the rider in a stretched out position. Best suited to gradual terrain, XC racing bikes are popular in areas without a lot of rocks and roots and among competitive riders. If your idea of mountain biking is fitness and endurance you may want to consider a XC Racing bike. If you consider the best rider the one who made it to the top first, then your choice is made.

XC Trail Bikes
Often called all-purpose, XC Trail bikes are what most people think of when they hear the phrase “mountain bike”. XC Trail bikes are designed to climb with control and comfort and descend with speed. With active suspension, knobby tires and low gearing the XC trail bike is slightly less efficient than an XC Racing bike but can be more enjoyable to ride downhill. As terrain gets steeper, trails tend to get rockier and the ultra-light XC Racing bike may ride roughly, but the XC Trail bike is right at home. If you like the idea of challenging yourself on a rocky climb, enjoy extended singletrack descents and want to battle it out with your friends going uphill or down, An XC Trail bike may be for you.

All-Mountain Bikes
Some riders just need more. As adventures get longer and trails more remote, many riders see increased value in reliability and downhill control. The bigger tires, plush suspension and powerful brakes of the All-mountain bike are an insurance policy against accidents and mishaps and can be just plain fun to ride. With geometry suited to steep terrain and small drop-offs All-mountain bikes can inspire confidence, however, on more mild terrain they can feel sluggish. If you are an all-day adventurer or ride harsh trails you may be an All-mountain rider.

Freeride Bikes
Freeride bikes are designed to ride the most extreme types of terrain. Steep chutes, large rocks and roots, big jumps and drop-offs, and just about anything else, natural or man-made, that you can imagine. With only the occasional concession made for even the thought of riding uphill, freeride bikes are mountain biking’s version of monster trucks. Blurring the line between bicycle and motorcycle, bikes with eight inches of rear wheel travel, three inch wide tires, and eight inch diameter brake rotors are commonplace. If you are attracted to the challenge of going big and see mountain biking as a source of individual expression, Freeriding will appeal to you. And what does any extreme athlete need? Well, a Saint to watch over him, of course.

A Quick History of Bicycles

2007-11-11T23:49:00.000-08:00

The Walking Machine
In 1817 Baron von Drais invented a walking machine that would help him get around the royal gardens faster: two same-size in-line wheels, the front one steerable, mounted in a frame which you straddled. The device was propelled by pushing your feet against the ground, thus rolling yourself and the device forward in a sort of gliding walk. The machine became known as the Draisienne or hobby horse. It was made entirely of wood. This enjoyed a short lived popularity as a fad, not being practical for transportation in any other place than a well maintained pathway such as in a park or garden.
The Velocipede or Boneshaker
The next appearance of a two-wheeled riding machine was in 1865, when pedals were applied directly to the front wheel. This machine was known as the velocipede ("fast foot"), but was popularly known as the bone shaker, since it was also made entirely of wood, then later with metal tires, and the combination of these with the cobblestone roads of the day made for an extremely uncomfortable ride. They also became a fad, and indoor riding academies, similar to roller rinks, could be found in large cities.
The High Wheel Bicycle
In 1870 the first all metal machine appeared. (Previous to this metallurgy was not advanced enough to provide metal which was strong enough to make small, light parts out of.) The pedals were still atttached directly to the front wheel with no freewheeling mechanism. Solid rubber tires and the long spokes of the large front wheel provided a much smoother ride than its predecessor. The front wheels became larger and larger as makers realized that the larger the wheel, the farther you could travel with one rotation of the pedals. You would purchase a wheel as large as your leg length would allow. This machine was the first one to be called a bicycle ("two wheel"). These bicycles enjoyed a great popularity among young men of means (they cost an average worker six month's pay), with the hey-day being the decade of the 1880s.
Because the rider sat so high above the center of gravity, if the front wheel was stopped by a stone or rut in the road, or the sudden emergence of a dog, the entire apparatus rotated forward on its front axle, and the rider, with his legs trapped under the handlebars, was dropped unceremoniously on his head. Thus the term "taking a header" came into being.
The High Wheel Tricycle
While the men were risking their necks on the high wheels, ladies, confined to their long skirts and corsets, could take a spin around the park on an adult tricycle. These machines also afforded more dignity to gentlemen such as doctors and clergymen. Many mechanical innovations now associated with the automobile were originally invented for tricycles. Rack and pinion steering, the differential, and band brakes, to name a few!
The High Wheel Safety
Improvements to the design began to be seen, many with the small wheel in the front to eliminate the tipping-forward problem. One model was promoted by its manufacturer by being ridden down the front steps of the capitol building in Washington, DC. These designs became known as high-wheel safety bicycles. Since the older high-wheel designs had been known simply as bicycles, they were now referred to as "ordinary bicycles" in comparison with the new-fangled designs, and then simply as "ordinaries."
The Hard-Tired Safety
The further improvement of metallurgy sparked the next innovation, or rather return to previous design. With metal that was now strong enough to make a fine chain and sprocket small and light enough for a human being to power, the next design was a return to the original configuration of two same-size wheels, only now, instead of just one wheel circumference for every pedal turn, you could, through the gear ratios, have a speed the same as the huge high-wheel. The bicycles still had the hard rubber tires, and in the absence of the long, shock-absorbing spokes, the ride they provided was much more uncomfortable than any of the high-wheel designs. Many of these bicycles of 100 years ago had front and/or rear suspensions. These designs competed with each other, your choice being the high-wheel's comfort or the safety's safety, but the next innovation tolled the death of the high-wheel design.
The Pnuematic-Tired Safety
The pnuematic tire was first applied to the bicycle by an Irish veterinarian who was trying to give his young son a more comfortable ride on his tricycle. This inventive young doctor's name was Dunlop. Sound familar? Now that comfort and safety could be had in the same package, and that package was getting cheaper as manufacturing methods improved, everyone clamored to ride the bicycle. This 1898 Yale uses a shaft drive to dispense with the dirty chain.The bicycle was what made the Gay Ninties gay. It was a practical investment for the working man as transportation, and gave him a much greater flexibility for leisure. Ladies, heretofore consigned to riding the heavy adult size tricycles that were only practical for taking a turn around the park, now could ride a much more versatile machine and still keep their legs covered with long skirts. The bicycle craze killed the bustle and the corset, instituted "common-sense dressing" for women and increased their mobility considerably. In 1896 Susan B. Anthony said that "the bicycle has done more for the emancipation of women than anything else in the world."Bicycling was so popular in the 1880s and 1890s that cyclists formed the League of American Wheelman (still in existence and now called the League of American Bicyclists). The League lobbied for better roads, literally paving the road for the automobile.
The Kid's Bike
Introduced just after the First World War by several manufacturers, such as Mead, Sears Roebuck, and Montgomery Ward, to revitalize the bike industry (Schwinn made its big splash slightly later), these designs, now called "classic", featured automobile and motorcyle elements to appeal to kids who, presumably, would rather have a motor. If ever a bike needed a motor, this was it. These bikes evolved into the most glamorous, fabulous, ostentatious, heavy designs ever. It is unbelievable today that 14-year-old kids could do the tricks that we did on these 65 pound machines! They were built into the middle '50s, by which time they had taken on design elements of jet aircraft and even rockets. By the '60s, they were becoming leaner and simpler.
The Current Scene
Pedaling History has on display even the recent history of the bicycle in America that we are more familiar with: the "English 3-speed" of the '50s through the '70s, the 10-speed derailleur bikes which were popular in the '70s (the derailleur had been invented before the turn of the century and had been in more-or-less common use in Europe since), and of course the mountain bike of right now. There are also many oddball designs that never quite made it, including the Ingo (you have to see it to believe it!)If you'd like to know more about these fascinating machines, you may be interested in the book Collecting and Restoring Antique Bicycles, by G. Donald Adams.You can also contact Pedaling History at info@pedalinghistory.com

The Ferrari Bicycle

2007-11-11T23:20:00.000-08:00

Cycling has never been cooler since the launch of the CX Bicycles Collection by Ferrari at the Monza Circuit, in Italy.
The limited edition range has been produced to celebrate Ferrari's 60th anniversary.

2008 SHIMANO Deore XT Marks 25 Years of Off-Road Innovation

2007-11-11T22:11:00.000-08:00

In 1982, what started as a phone call from Yoshi Shimano to the HQ in Japan about a growing cycling movement resulted in a full set of components designed specifically for mountain bikes...Shimano Deore XT was born.2008 Shimano Deore XT represents a component set designed to take on the challenges dished out by modern day mountain bike riders on aggressive terrain. With several new products and plenty of options you’ll see why the new XT delivers the choices and products you seek.Below is your glimpse into the all new XT.

Introducing the Shimano Shadow Rear Derailleur
Like the latest XTR, options are the emphasis of the new Deore XT. The debut of the Shimano Shadow RD yields a third rear derailleur option, joining the Top-Normal and Low-Normal versions. A Shadow RD places priority on a low profile design and less body movement for those enthusiasts that are most at home on extreme technical trails.

RD-M772 – XT's Shimano Shadow RD

• Top-Normal spring design (The Original) to mesh with the more common choice of RapidFire shifters for trail / all-mountain riding

• In high gear, the derailleur has a profile that is a full 15mm less than a traditional rear derailleur. That means it barely protrudes more than the quick release skewer nut.

• Direct cable routing reduces the chance of the cable snagging on roots and rocks.

• Stronger spring keeps the derailleur body more stable in rough terrainand yields firm, crisp shifting feel.

• Redesigned bracket axle keeps the derailleur body from smacking against the chainstay.

• Available in medium and long cage

• 235g

Servo-Wave: Exclusive Feature of the New Deore XT Disc Brake Systems
The new Servo-Wave equipped Deore XT disc brake levers provide both clearance & power. Available in Dual Control Levers or individual brake levers, this feature provides plenty of pad clearance while delivering substantial power. Combined with the new, stiffer, mono-body XT caliper an additional 20% more power is on tap. Ergonomic tuning has also been enhanced with another XT exclusive: brake levers that have adjustable lever free-stroke as well as adjustable reach, resulting in a system that can be tuned to each individual’s anatomy and preferences.

BL-M775 Servo Wave Hydraulic Disc Brake Lever

• Servo Wave mechanism creates quicker brake engagement without reducing brake pad clearance at the caliper – this feature is unique to new Deore XT!

• 20% more stopping power when used with the new mono-body XT caliper

• Adjustable reach & adjustable free-stroke –- a Deore XT exclusive

• Ergonomic lever design

• No hassle cable routing

• 128g/pr

BR-M775: High Power Hydraulic Disc Brake

• Mono-body caliper for lightweight and rigidity

• New rotor designs in 160, 180, and 203mm sizes

• High Power: 20% more stopping power when used with the new XT ST-M775 Dual Control Levers or BL-M775 Disc Brake Levers

• Compatible with all current hardware and pads

• 224g/pr (calipers only) or 316g/wheel (160mm caliper, adaptor, hose & rotor)

Wheelsets: Two Options for your Riding Style

WH-M776: 20mm Thru Axle All-Mountain Wheelset

For the first time, Deore XT will feature an option for a 20mm through axle front hub and also a wheelset featuring the same through axle front hub and wider rims.

Current trail riding has spawned a number of lightweight, long-travel, though axle forks that were made to soak up the bumps and provide precise steering. Having the right front hub completes the equation, and the new Deore XT fits the bill with precision angular contact bearings that are fully adjustable, efficient under any load, completely rebuildable, and specified as a factory matched set.

The XT freehub has been redesigned for quick engagement (10 degrees max) and minimum drag. The result is a highly efficient hub that lends itself to technical riding.

• 10 degree engagement Freehub body

• Center Lock disc brake compatible with 20mm oversized through axle

• 7075 T6 alloy oversized axles

• Wider rim (26.4mm) for better profile with wider treads

• Standard size Center Lock interface

• Angular contact bearings ensure long life and maximum efficiency

• 24 spoke design

• Alloy nipples / 14g spokes

• Tube and tubeless tire compatible

• 2050g

WH-M775 Disc Brake XC Wheel Set

• M775 (559x19)Center Lock disc brake compatible with standard Q/R front hub

• 14/15/14g spokes

• 7075 T6 alloy oversized axles

• Angular contact bearings ensure long life and maximum efficiency

• 24 spoke design

• Alloy nipples

• Tube and tubeless tire compatible

• 1660g

SL-M770: RapidFire Shift Lever
Like XTR, the new XT shift levers have 2-Way Release and Instant Release shifting. The shift unit also has a two position mounting bracket for inboard or outboard brake lever mounting.

• Separate shift levers best used with RD-M770 top normal rear derailleur

• 2-way release trigger allows thumb or finger actuation

• Instant release for instant cable response

• 2-position mounting bracket allows for inboard or outboard placement

• Removable Optical Gear Display with integrated cover plate

• Floating OGD provides clearance for remote suspension lockout.

• 260g/pr

ST-M775 & ST-M770: Dual Control Shift Levers
• Features Servo Wave creating quicker brake engagement without reducing brake pad clearance at the caliper – this feature is unique to new Deore XT!

• 20% more stopping power when used with the new mono-block XT caliper

• Best used with RD-M770 low normal rear derailleur

• Hydraulic brake (M775) or cable brake (M770) compatible

• Instant release for instant cable response

• Multi-Release allows selection of multiple gears inward or outward

• Radial master cylinder allows lever to be more compact and creates better cable routing

• Adjustable reach & adjustable free-stroke –- a Deore XT exclusive

• 515g/pr

FC-M770: Hollowtech II Crankset
• Hollowtech II design maximizes stiffness while keeping weight to a minimum

• Precision two-piece construction for perfect chainline and chainwheel alignment.

• 44T-32T-22T

• Increased stiffness and improved shifting performance

• Carbon composite/ Steel composite middle ring adds rigidity for better shifting, increases service life, and smoothly delivers powers to the cassette.

• Outboard bearings maximize stability and stiffness

• 850g

PD-M770 SPD Pedal
This is Shimano’s first XT branded SPD pedal.

• Based on the proven XTR design

• Dual sided SPD pedal

• Open design sheds mud

• Predictable step engagement and release

• 352g

RD-M770 & RD-M771: Rear Derailleurs
Delivering the options you seek, the all new XT derailleurs include both options:

Top-Normal RD-M771: “The Original”

Low-Normal RD-M770: “Rapid-Rise”

Both derailleurs are compatible with any Shimano shifting system giving you endless options.

• Traditional rear derailleur design featuring signature Shimano precision shifting

• Top normal (M771) and Low normal (M770) in both medium and long cage available

• Can easily be combined with RapidFire or Dual Control shift levers with the two available spring options

• Shimano signature Light Action gear changes

• 239g

FD-M770 / M771 / M770-E: Front Derailleurs
• Available in Top-Swing, conventional, or E-type configurations to mount on most any frame

• Adaptable clamp means one size fits all for 28.6, 31.8, 34.9 and multi-pull allows top-pull or bottom-pull cables.

• Angled set screws for easier adjustment on some full suspension frame designs

• Lighter cage also has been re-profiled for more tire clearance

• 152g (M770) / 155g (M771) / 166g (M770-E)

Hubs: Disc / Thru-axle / Traditional
The Shimano Deore XT hubs come in a variety of styles. Colors come in Black or silver. The styles come in both disc and regular while a 20mm thru-axle version is also offered.

HB-M776: 20mm Thru-axle Front Hub

• Through axle front hub for 20mm axle

• Uses standard size Center Lock interface for easy rotor compatibility

• Angular contact bearings ensure long life, precision adjustment and maximum efficiencyHB-M775 & FH-M775: Disc Hubs

• Center Lock compatible hubs

• 14mm 7075 T6 alloy oversized axle

• Angular contact bearings ensure long life, precision adjustment and maximum efficiency

• Quick, 10 degree freehub engagement

• Black or Silver

HB-M770 & FH-M770: Disc Hubs

• Conventional hubs for a clean look on trekking bikes

• 14mm 7075 T6 alloy oversized axle

• Angular contact bearings ensure long life, precision adjustment and maximum efficiency

• Quick, 10 degree freehub engagement

• Available in Silver

V-Brakes & V-Brake Brake Levers
When we say options...we mean it. For those who don't prefer disc brakes, we offer a cosmetic upgrade for our XT V-Brakes and V-Brake Levers.

Bunnyhop Basic Technique

2007-11-11T20:51:00.000-08:00

This is for you who want to fly with bicycle............

Step 1 : Bike Setup

Short Stem

Lowered Seat

Flat Pedals

Step 2 : Riding Technique

Take off concept:While riding in a standing position, crouch down.
Pull up on your handlebars lifting your front tire
off of the ground while explosively springing up and
forward on your bike. Keep your cranks parallel to
the ground.

In the air:To lift the rear of the bike higher into the air than
the spring will take it, rock/push forward on your
handlebars and tuck your bike up into your body.

The new KHS Green Bicycle

2007-11-11T18:56:00.001-08:00

"Are you a person that wants to start bike commuting?...The KHS Green is the bikefor you!!!" bikecommuters.com

For those who used bicycle for daily activities: to school, to office, to shop, to everywhere. Everyday.

Frame
Hi-Ten Classic Mens or Ladies Step-thru frame

Fork
Hi-Ten

Headset
1" Treaded

Rims
Weinmann ZAC21 silver anodized alloy 700 x 38c

Hubs
Shimano 3 speed Nexus Coaster Brake Rear Hub

Tires
Staad 700 x 38c

Spokes
14G UCP, 36°

Front Derailleur
N/A

Rear Derailleur
Shimano 3 speed Nexus Coaster Brake Rear Hub

Shifters
Shimano 3 speed Nexus Revo Twist

Chain
1/2" x 1/8"

Crankset
3-piece with complete chainguard

Bottom Bracket
3-piece

Cog
Shimano

Pedals
VP alloy w/steel cage w/boron axle

Seatpost
Steel

Saddle
Dual Density with Elastomer Springs

Handlebar
4" rise

Stem
Alloy w/Tall Quill

Grips
Kraton

Brake Levers

Brakes
Coaster Rear, Hand Brake Front

Color
Black

Frame Size
17", 21" Men's and 14", 17" Ladies

Extras
Fenders, Alloy Rear Carrier, Kick Stand, Bell and Rear Wheel Lock

KHS Flagstaff

2007-11-11T18:10:00.000-08:00

2008 FlagstaffRace-proven 4-bar linkage with a choice parts package. What else do you need to take on the world?

KHS Flagstaff bicycle is the latest 29" model in our stable. This is an all-out dual suspension ride. This bike can be used for cross country, 24-hour endurance rides, trail use, etc. You name it--this bike can do it. These bike will be available in December.

Frame
29" AL 7005 w/4-bar Horst bearing linkage, 3.5" Travel w/RockShox Monarch 2.1 air shock

Fork
29" Rock Shox Reba SL 80mm, Dual Air, Motion Control, External Rebound, Internal Floodgate, Compression adjust to 'Lock'

Headset
Tioga ZST2 Threadless, Zero Stack

Rims
WTB Speed Disc29 All MTN w/eyelets

Hubs
Front: Alloy Disc Rear: Shimano Disc

Tires
WTB Exiwolf Race, 29x2.3, Folding

Spokes
14G Black Stainless, 32°

Front Derailleur
Shimano Deore

Rear Derailleur
SRAM X-9

Shifters
SRAM X-7 Trigger

Chain
KMC Z9000

Crankset
Truvativ Firex Giga X Pipe, 44/32/22

Bottom Bracket
Truvativ GXP outboard cartridge bearing

Cassette
SRAM PG950 11-34, 9-Speed

Pedals
Wellgo W41 Clipless

Seatpost
Truvativ XR

Saddle
WTB Silverado Race

Handlebar
Truvativ XR 31.8, Triple Butted

Stem
Truvativ XR 31.8, 3D Forged

Grips
WTB Weirwolf Dual Density

Brake Levers
Hayes Stroker Ryde

Brakes
Hayes Stroker Ryde Hydraulic, 6" rotors

Color
Flat Black

Frame Size
S, M, L

MSRP: $2199

Giant's ALLIANCE

2007-11-11T17:43:00.000-08:00

Giant’s advanced mixed-material technology for the competitive racer to the weekend club rider, Alliance, is engineered to provide significant comfort and efficiency over standard aluminium framesets. It accomplishes this by fusing two traditionally independent frame materials: composite and aluminium. Unifying these two complementary materials enables Giant to create a single structure that capitalises on the performance benefits of both. Only through Giant’s long-standing experience in working with these two materials is this highly technical union now possible.

Alliance is more than just an aluminium and composite material story. It’s how they’re combined that provides the real advantage - an advantage that you’ll be able to feel in three ways (see above left).

Lighter Frame Weight
Thanks to composite’s minimal mass, Alliance frames weigh up to a half pound less than traditional aluminium frames.

Outstanding Lateral Stiffness
Aluminium’s unyielding stiffness gives Alliance models bottom bracket deflection equal to all-aluminium frames.

Superior Compliance
Composite’s legendary vibration absorption makes it the perfect choice for the strategically laid-out top section of Alliance frames. These advantages add up to an overall outstanding ride quality that balances weight, stiffness and ride compliance.

fO Composite

2007-11-09T00:34:00.001-08:00

In a world flooded with composite technology, Giant’s legendary fO Composite process stands alone. Born over eighteen years ago in Giant’s own Taiwan-based “Techno Centre” engineering lab, Meta Composite continues to improve through Giant’s exhaustive materials research, state-of-the-art manufacturing development and world-class field testing.

fO Composite is Giant’s proprietary composite technology, developed to achieve a superior balance between the three things serious riders hold in the highest regard: stiffness, light weight and ride quality. It’s a difficult juggling act to keep these three elements in perfect harmony. Get it wrong and you’ll end up with a bike that’s too flexy, too harsh, or too heavy. Get it right, and you’ll have a bike that accelerates like a rocket, efficiently transfers energy and soaks up performance-robbing vibration for all-day comfort.

What makes fO Composite stand out from the other “me-too” composite technologies currently on the market is that Giant - and Giant alone - controls the entire process start to finish, from the countless field-testing hours, to the meticulous engineering conducted by Giant’s own engineering staff, to the hand lay-up of composite frames at the Giant C-Tech factory. Giant is proud that it can pass fO Composite on to the rider who demands a lighter, laterally stiffer and more vertically compliant ride from their bicycle.

It’s these improvements that enable Giant to craft the best-performing composite bicycles on and off the road. fO Composite’s superior performance begins with bare carbon thread and ends in an entirely handmade frame constructed of strategically layered, Uni-Directional (UD) carbon. At Giant, this combination of painstaking process and a proprietary material selection is more than just materials and technology - it’s a promise of superior quality and performance that no other major brand can make. That’s the fO Composite promise.

At Giant, The Commitment to the Advancement of Bicycle Technology is Absolute

2007-11-09T00:09:00.000-08:00

You can see it in Giant’s partnership with our athletes, you can learn about it through our history of revolutionary product innovations and you can experience it for yourself when you read about Giant’s Meta Composite, Alliance, Aluxx, Maestro, Five Point and Compact Road technologies.